Jom Kopitiam Perth review: April Ooi visits William Street Malaysian restaurant for nasi lemak, kuey teow

Every time I say I’m part Malaysian, people cannot help gushing about how much they love Malaysian food. The reaction amplifies if I mention Dad’s from Penang, the nation’s food capital. Growing up in Perth, we’ve been blessed with so many migrant-owned eateries cooking up authentic meals that teleport us straight to the flavour-rich streets of Malaysia. Recently, I’ve been trying to go to spots I’ve never visited before — which led me to Jom Kopitiam in the city. The vibe is clean, casual and classic. The wooden tables and patterned tiling is quintessentially Malaysian and early on a Saturday night, the place was already packed. The menu is made up of a wide range of Malaysian staples. I always order a plate of Penang kuey teow ($19.90) because it’s essentially the litmus test for any Malaysian eatery. I stressed at the counter that I wanted it extra spicy — and they delivered. It’s in my top three fried kuey teow in Perth, though I would have liked a little more smokiness, but I liked how they balanced oiliness, sweetness and savoury perfectly. The fried maggi mee goreng ($16.90), on the other hand, was full of smoky, aromatic wok flavour. They have truly mastered the art of seasoning because the flavours were bold without being overwhelmingly salty. Nasi lemak is a staple whenever I bring my boyfriend, and he ordered the set with goat curry ($21.90). This meal was a clone of the delicious plates I had in Kuala Lumpur The green-tinged pandan coconut rice was fragrant and came with deep-fried anchovies, egg, papadum, pickled vegetables, cucumber and sambal. The serving size was overwhelming, and we had to take a lot of it away. Luckily nasi lemak keeps exceptionally well, and the tender goat curry was even better the next day. The drink selection leans on the traditional side. It was a hot day and an ice cold The Tarik ($5.50) went down a treat. They also do homemade barley water ($4.50) which is a big throwback to my childhood; it was grandma’s concoction of choice anytime we were sick. Jom Kopitiam’s rendition is a little sweeter than my grandma would usually make, but delicious, nonetheless. Service is brisk and efficient, keeping with the no-nonsense attitude of a true kopitiam. It’s not fancy, but it never has to be — this restaurant brings the warmth of an authentic home-cooked meal to the heart of Perth, and I couldn’t have been more satisfied. Jom Kopitiam 310 William Street, Perth OPEN Monday-Friday 10.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-9pm; Saturday-Sunday 8am-2.30pm, 5pm-9pm CONTACT 0410 294 951 BOOKINGS Yes THE VERDICT A halal-certified Malaysian eatery excelling in bold and authentic flavours.