The big swell on Smoky Cape

I can’t believe what I’ve just heard. One of the biggest swells ever to hit is pummelling right up and down the New South Wales coast and I’ve just arrived where I thought I could experience the most ferocious illustration of its energy — Smoky Cape on the mid-north coast near South West Rocks.

I’m not disappointed. Even though the sun is shining and the wind is coming from the west, producing an offshore groomed ocean surface, it’s an awesome sight looking down at the gigantic ocean swells that have travelled thousands of kilometres from a storm somewhere below Tasmania until their final explosive release of energy on the beach below.

I’m thinking how scary it would be to be out in the middle of that.

And that’s when I spot it, before I hear it. Erupting from beneath a mountainous unbroken wave, a whale breaches. Something else catches my eye further along the small cove. A pod of dolphins is riding the enormous surf below — truly in their element.

And then I hear the whale siren — I can’t believe, in all that raw energy and chaos, hundreds of metres below, I hear it clear as day.

This must have been everyday life for the former lighthouse keepers on Smoky Cape, and as I walk around the summit, I’ve discovered you can experience that life, with the keepers’ heritage cottages available for holiday accommodation.

There are two cottages and a bed-and-breakfast with three ensuite rooms, all facing different stunning vistas around the cape.

Ranging from $550-$750 per night depending on the season, and a three-night minimum, you might want to consider sharing the cottage with friends, as they sleep up to eight.

I add that to my growing “next time” list as I head down the steep path to my car. This is a national park, and I’ve left Mallee dog sleeping shotgun, hoping she’s worn out enough not to notice the kangaroos having a feed of grass just metres away.

I’m heading back out along the winding road but have spotted the brown tourist sign for Trial Bay Gaol and decide to have a quick look.

They sure didn’t appreciate stunning ocean views back in the day, did they? The prisoners would’ve had one of the most striking panoramas as they did hard labour — real hard.

Opening in 1886, the inmates were sent to the gaol to construct a breakwater to create a safe harbour between Sydney and Brisbane.

It ultimately failed but the remnants of the breakwater can still be seen today.

Later the prison was used to lock up Germans living in Australia who were suspected of supporting the enemy during World War I.

The internment camp closed in 1918, and by 1922 it was stripped and started its journey of decay to the historic ruins that stand today.

I check out the Trial Bay Gaol campsite but again, I can’t stay because it’s in a national park, but it’s a cheaper option to take in this rugged cape. I also find the ruins are undergoing some restoration work but will be re-opened to the public soon. The campsite is still available.

I’m driving off shaking my head at the maths of the gaol — 13 years to build on prime land, for just a 33-year operational return on investment, but occupying the site for the 106 years since. I shrug. I suppose bringing visitors like me in, that investment might just be kicking in again.