The secret railway of Paris

In the second half of the 19th century, a circular railway was built to transport freight and people around Paris. It was dubbed la Petite Ceinture (the Little Belt).

But by the 1930s, with the French capital’s extensive road and metro systems in place, this particular railway line was deemed surplus to requirements.

After being closed down, it was largely left to rot and be reclaimed by nature, but in recent decades, slices of the 32km route have been revived, not for steam trains, like in the olden days, but for pedestrians, dog walkers, cyclists, joggers, graffiti artists and anyone else desiring a change of scenery or different Parisian perspectives.

Some parts of the old Petite Ceinture are elevated, allowing you to peek over boulevards and into apartments as you walk. I stretch my legs on a 2km section in the 15th arrondissement of south-western Paris, between Balard Metro station and Parc Georges-Brassens, an attractive green space in a nice, cafe-dotted neighbourhood that few tourists visit.

The vibe along this route ranges from quiet and peaceful to typically urban, with traffic sounds — and the occasional police siren —spiking the air.

Some of the old track, incidentally, is still intact. Other portions of the Petite Ceinture, like the chunk in the 14th arrondissement east of Parc Georges-Brassens, are more sheltered from noise pollution, sunken several metres below street level and hemmed in by steep walls tufted with vegetation.

Birdsong boosts the serenity and you can almost kid yourself that you’re in the countryside until you climb the steps back up to the Parisian bustle or hear hip-hop from the mobile phones of artists daubing the walls of tunnels with spray paint.

Some former Petite Ceinture stations have been reborn as community hubs and venues in which to eat, drink, socialise and watch live music.

On my walk in the 15th arrondissement, I pass Voie 15 by Henix, a co-working space, coffee shop and brunch spot that sits by the tracks in the former Gare de Vaugirard-Ceinture station.

Later, walking on the Petite Ceinture in the 14th arrondissement, I reach Poincon, a hip restaurant and cultural hub with live bands and DJ sets in the old Montrouge-Ceinture station. Another day, exploring the remains of the Petite Ceinture in the 18th arrondissement, north of Montmartre, I discover other engaging stretches and refreshment spots in converted stations.